Thursday May 27, 2010

May 28, 2010

We got up and packed, then checked out and tossed our gear in the A4 for the trip back to Paris.

Rather than do the whole thing on the Autoroute, which is a snooze, we drove northeast along the Loire River past Amboise. The scenery was good, traffic light, and our favorite radio format (Nostalgique) turned out everything from Elvis to Motown. Aside from “Karen,” our GPS, telling us to make a right turn when there was no road on a couple of occasions, all went well. We use “Karen” primarily because her French pronunciation is even worse than ours.

Once on the A10 Autoroute, we cruised along with light traffic and no problems until we got close to Paris and Orly Airport (where we were to turn in our car) when Karen tried to send us off to God knows where. Fortunately, the Bevigator knows the route well and took us right where we needed to go – Karen sulked and kept muttering “recalculating.”

Baron’s Limo picked us up at Orly (they are terrific) and took us to the Sofitel near the Arc de Triomphe. Our usual Paris digs – Le Lavoisier – was full, so we opted for the Sofitel, and it was grand. A huge suite, nice lobby bar, and great location.

After a Kir and a glass of Chablis at the bar, we walked two blocks to the Balzac Hotel, home to Pierre Gagnaire, a three-star Michelin restaurant. This is generally considered the best food in Paris, and – having eaten here a couple of years back – we decided to try it again to confirm our previous experience. Marc and Catherine came up from Tours to meet us for dinner. The meal was exquisite, probably the best we have ever had. We opted for the tasting menu – seven courses in all. The flavors were incredible, and the presentation superb. The wines were also tops – flutes of Krug Brut Champagne to start, followed by a Pernand Vergelesses white Burgundy, and a Vacqueryas red from the Rhone.

Bev was taking photos of each plate as it appeared, having 1st gotten permission from the head waiter. At the end of the meal, Pierre Gagnaire came to the table and chatted with us. He was delightful, and asked if Bev would like to take photos in the kitchen, which she did. He returned to the table again, and asked if she would like a picture with him, in the kitchen. As you’ll see from our photos, both of them were beaming in a great photo taken by Catherine.

Totally stuffed, we waddled from the Balzac to Avenue Friedland, near our hotel, and bid farewell to Marc and Catherine, who will be coming to Boca to visit in September. Then, a short stroll to the Sofitel, and to bed. A memorable day.


Wednesday, May 26, 2010

May 28, 2010

We woke to another dreary overcast day. Other than sightseeing via foot and dialysis in the afternoon, nothing special was planned.  We started out to take pics, but photography was out of the question with the weather. As noon closed in, we found a small Italian restaurant (Tosca) in a quiet square of Rue Colbert to have lunch. Their claim was the thinnest crust  you’d find in Europe and they weren’t kidding. It barely held a little tomato sauce and cheese without caving. David and I added a green salad with the small pizza and a bottle of local Touraine Sauvignon (about 10 Euros) . After lunch, it was time to get to the clinic. The staff and doctor were very pleasant and I was told by the doctor I was their youngest patient. Depressing!

After the clinic, we dropped by our friends’ home, Marc and Catherine, to figure out, what else, where to eat dinner. Off we went with Catherine in her yellow VW Beatle to BarJu a seafood restaurant in Tours. We had a 3- course fish dinner and it was great.

Tomorrow, pack and drive back to Paris.


Tuesday, May 25, 2010

May 26, 2010

A dreary, rain off-again on-again type day. Not great for taking photos as you will see, but we went headed down one side of the Loire, crossing back over at Amboise. We headed toward Bléré and the Châteaux de Chenonceau.
We stopped in Bléré for lunch. We found most everything was closed as it was market day, but had a quick lunch at the Chalet in the heart of the village. After lunch we strolled around the town which was quite tiny. Once finished touring, off to the châteaux. Chenonceau is considered to be one of the prettiest châteaux in Loire Valley besides Azay-de-Rideau. Chenonceau was constructed in the 16th century on the remains of a mill. The gallery stretches across the Cher River and in WWI it was used as a hospital. Chenonceau has been influenced by five women from Henri II’s mistress, Diane de Poitiers to his widow, Catherine de Medicis. The interior is graced with beautiful artwork, tapestries and furniture.

In the evening we met our friends who live in Tours, Marc and Catherine for dinner. We ate in a small restaurant which I would classify as an up-and-comer to earn a Michelin one-star, Olivier Arlot. Check out the photos and see for yourself.


Monday, May 24, 2010

May 25, 2010

Up early for what turned out to be an easy and short ride to the dialysis center. Doctor and nurses were all very nice.
Afterwards, had a quick (pizza) and green salad lunch and headed for the airport. After a few missteps (the car rental centers have moved) we got a nice Audi A4 turbo diesel with a six speed (David wants to get one at home) and headed south.
Two hours later we arrived in Tours and found our hotel pretty easily. It is an old “Grand” hotel – nice but a bit tired. Riding the elevator is an adventure, as when it arrives at a floor it drops about six inches with a jolt.
Strolled around Tours a bit and had dinner at a small bistro – smoked salmon and beef tartare for David and entrecote for Bev. Nothing fancy, but – with a nice bottle of local wine, it was perfect.
Look forward to visiting the countryside tomorrow.


Weekend in Paris

May 25, 2010

Saturday, May 22, 2010
Arrived at Charles deGaulle safely and pretty jet-lagged from being awakened several times because of turbulence on the crossing. Once we cleared customs and retreived our luggage we found that the agricultural farmers/owners had the Champs de Elysses tied up because of a demonstration. All we wanted to do was to lay down and nap but it wasn’t to be. We were taken on a round-a-bout trip to the hotel taking over one hour compared to what normally would have been a 30 minute drive. Once there, we got a second wind, headed off to Le Carre for lunch. It is a little bistro not far from the hotel and offers a nice variety of dishes. David had the beef carpaccio and I had the curried crab and green salad. Once lunch was over, we were ready for a nap.
Later we found we were hungry again so we headed for the Metro and ended up at Place de l’Alma on the Seine where there are numerous restaurants. We picked Chez Francis because of its views of the Eiffel Tower. David and I had a quick bite to eat, both of us trying to get through the jet-lag and get back to the hotel for a good night’s sleep.

Sunday, May 23, 2010 – a new day with both of us renewed by a solid night’s sleep. Weather is picture-perfect and warm. We took the Metro to the Bastille, near to Place des Vosges. Place des Vosges has some good restaurants but more importantly it has many art and sculpture galleries, all open on Sunday. It is fun to walk around popping in and out the galleries. We had lunch at one of the oldest bistroes in Paris, Bofinger. I ordered, scallops, languoustine and shrimp. David had grilled salmon. Once we had lunch we walked around for quite a long time, then took the Metro back to our hotel. Later that evening we had reserved a table at Joel Robouchon’s newest 2-star restaurant, La Table. The food was exquisite. David and I both chose from the ‘petit’ plates. We tried three each, and one was better than the other. The bonus was the server brought us a small tureen of Robouchon’s famous mashed potatoes. Perfect and the best you’ll ever taste! What a nice way to end your day. Tomorrow, dialysis and then drive off to Tours. Bon Nuit!


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