Sunday, December 18th we hosted a Christmas Open House for 50+ friends and family. We were worried about the weather, but the day turned out to be as perfect as you could get – temperatures in mid-70s and clear as a bell with great easterly breezes. We were up early as we had still a lot of last-minute things that needed to be done. The Open House was from 3 to 7 which gave guests time to come and go as they pleased. All our invitees stopped by at some point, enjoyed hors d’oeuvres, wine and cocktails, and small talk. We put out a variety of finger foods and desserts. David made his jerk chicken and jerk swordfish (at my request) and everyone raved about the swordfish. It had a bite and was quite tasty. Our friend Patrick McDonald and his wife attended, and he played guitar and sang, which everyone really enjoyed.  Then he switched from entertainer to guest and relaxed with some good food and wine. The four hours went all too quickly and it was time to call it a day.

Christmas Eve came quickly and it was time to leave for Suanne and Brad’s cocktail party. Their home was decorated for Christmas with four or five trees lit and candles galore. Typical Suanne, her table was set buffet-style and laden with seafood selections, lobster dip, and even pigs-in-the-blanket for the grandkids. Suanne and Brad’s kids, grands, and friends were arriving, but unfortunately time passed quickly and we needed to get home as we were hosting Christmas Eve dinner for Darren, Michelle, Anne, and Jay.  We served our traditional Christmas Eve dinner, a Chateaubriand, with garlic mashed potatoes, green beans, snap peas, and lemon-honey roasted carrots. Everyone loved it, and there were few leftovers. With dinner over, we all went to the family room where we exchanged presents. At about 11 we all wished each other a Merry Christmas and a goodnight.

Christmas Day rolled around and we finished the clean-up of wrapping paper, boxes, etc. I made green beans to bring over the Jeff and Dawn’s, as we were invited for Christmas dinner, Lucy too. We arrived and Hallie, Jeff and Dawn’s Chihuahua and Lucy’s best friend, greeted us at the door. Both she and Lucy raced around the house happy to see each other. All the Outcalt family was there, Tina, Cheryl & Jake, Holly & Terry, the boys, Colton, Hunter and Hunter’s friend, Lauren. Dawn made a beautiful prime rib dinner with plenty of sides. The food, wine, and company were all terrific, and we had a nice time. Thorougly stuffed, we drove home, toasted each other and Lucy with a glass of wine, and turned in as I must be up up early in the morning. It was a great Christmas!

We woke to an absolutely gorgeous day in the low 70s. A perfect day for roasting a turkey, and deep-frying one too. We are expecting 10 for dinner and a few more for cocktails at three. David and I prepped most of the sides the day before, so we are in really good shape. One of our friends, Garry, was deep-frying turkeys and did one for us. He dropped it off in the early afternoon. David and I both tried a taste and I must say it was moist and delicious.

All we had to do is get the appetizers ready and we could relax before the guests arrived. Our dinner guests were, Garry and Carmen and their son, Junior, Suzanne and Craig, John, Craig, and our friends Jack and Betty Fisher who drove over from Boca Grande. At the cocktail hour we were joined by Anne and J and Darren and Michelle.

David had some special wines ready for the cocktail party – reds from the Rhone Valley in France, and Chalk Hill Chardonnay from Raymond Strong. He also had some Proseco chilled so that Garry and Carmen could try it. When all arrived, the festivities began. Appetizers galore hit the table – rosemary-roasted cashews which David made using a recipe from the Sofitel in Paris; shrimp with mustard and cocktail sauces; mozzarella balls with grape tomatoes, marinated in olive oil and served with a drizzle of balsamic vinegar; and a selection of cheeses. Garry and Carmen tried the Proseco and liked it. David then added a bit of Peche to turn them into Bellinis, and soon everyone was trying them and the bottle was done.

Anne and Darren and friends departed for dinner elsewhere, and we headed to the dining room table. The food was set out in the family room, buffet style, and soon the plates were groaning with turkey, stuffing, potatoes, peas, brussel sprouts, acorn squash,yams, and much more. Pies of every description, including Betty’s sinfully rich chocolate pecan, beckoned those who could make it through the meal. David broke out some fabulous wines – Kosta Browne Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir and  a Chassagne Montrachet white Burgundy – and everyone had a feast.

Then it was time for the clean-up. Looking at the tons of dishes and plates, we knew a lot of work lay ahead. David started to wash things and was interrupted by Jack, Betty, Craig, Craig, and Suzanne who insisted that they would take care of it. Heaven! In short order, all was done, the dishwasher turned on, and we all enjoyed a final glass of wine before everyone departed and we wound our way to bed.

As always, my favorite meal of the year.

It turned out the rain stopped and I thought the young trick-or-treaters would start coming by around 6 the latest, but the night started out late, and it was almost 7 before we got our first visitor. After that it was a steady stream of kids and parents knocking on our door. All told, we opened the door to an estimated 100 kids. Another surprise was that all the kids and parents were willing to have their photo taken. In a few cases, the parents had their cameras and took photos of us and their kids. We almost ran out of candy, so Darren ran over the supermarket to restock. We wanted to make sure we didn’t get any tricksters.

For the buffet we served sausage and meatballs, gorgonzola gnocchi, mini-rigatoni, beef manicotti, asparagus, green salad, and garlic bread. There was virtually little to no leftovers, so the food was a hit.

All-in-all, it was a fun night with all the kids, family and friends. You’ll see how creative the kids and their costumes were when you go through the photos. We think we should do an “Italian Buffet 2″ next year.

The weather was perfect; the scenery wonderful as always; our time with friends enjoyable; and the food and wine terrific.

It only takes a day to get used to our “home” again. David sets up the computer in the den. We stock the kitchen. And we end each day at the Cafe le Centre.

Patrick, who cares for and shares the property, has a great sense of humor, and we enjoy meeting him at the Cafe for a glass of wine. He asks about the U.S., and  tells us about living in France.

Our little part of France is peaceful and pretty, a tiny 900-person village set on the slopes of the Alpilles. Market Day on Fridays is a treat – the main street lined with colorful booths selling cheese, charcuterie, fish, olives, honey, clothes, plants, and just about everything else you might think of. We stroll around, buy a few things, then sit at the Cafe for a coffee and watch all the action. We hope to be back in the Spring, again.

We found some neat new places to eat, and re-visited some favorites. A return to Mas de Capoun in Molleges confirmed that they have wonderful food at amazing prices. It will be on our list to visit again next trip. l’Aubergine in Eygalieres remains a reliable destination for good food and a warm welcome. Bistrot Decouverte in St. Remy continues to serve great  food. La Petite Table in Eygalieres is “new” in that they are now in a larger setting. The decor is terrific, and the food superb. Chez Gus is a new find in St. Remy, ultra casual with terrific takes on fresh seafood and shellfish. Brasserie d’Eygalieres is in the old quarters of Chez Bru, which has moved its Michelin stars down the road a couple of kilometers. The food is fabulous, and the sidewalk setting perfect for people watching. We were sorry to hear of the closing of Bistrot Mogador at Chateau Estoublon. We liked the menu and setting very much and will miss spending lunches and early afternoons there.

At Riboto-de-Taven, Jean-Pierre still has the best food in Provence, Philippe the most intriguing wine list, and Christine the warmest smile and most delectable cheese selection. Our dinner with them at our “home” was a highpoint of our stay, despite putting together a menu consisting almost entirely of things that were out of season. Fred is a treat, chasing his shadow and giving great shaggy kisses.

It’s always a bit of culture shock coming home. There’s a lot we will miss. But, it’s great to have Lucy by our side again, and we can look forward to a return.

With the effects of our illness lingering, and not feeling well, we called Marc and Catherine and cancelled dinner for the evening. We got a light snack in the hotel, packed our things up, and turned in.

Early Sunday morning we got up, checked out, and headed for the airport. What a zoo! Lines everywhere, no clear directions as to where to go. After an hour or so, we were done and sitting at the gate.

The gate info said the flight was on time, but when 30 minutes had elapsed after the announced boarding time, it was obvious there was a delay. Countless Air France staff milled around, talking on phones, and with each other, while the folks waiting to board became more restive. Finally, they announced that there was a delay while equipment was being repaired and that people should go back to the lounge until further notice. We chose not to budge, and sure enough, a minute later they started boarding.

Our equipment was a 747 – my favorite plane. Seats were comfortable and the wines and food good. Took a snooze, and awoke as we were approaching Miami.

Immigration and Customs went pretty smoothly, and in less than an hour, we were approaching home and a very happy small black-and-white dog. AFter a load of kisses and tail wagging, we turned in. All-in-all, a great trip. We’ll miss France, but are glad to be home.

A smooth, event-free drive took us to the Gare TGV, where we turned in the car and waited for our train to Paris. It arrived on time, and we boarded and settled in for the  three-hour 180-mph ride to Paris. In no time we were pulling in. We grabbed our bags, met our town car driver, and headed off for the Sofitel. There was a lot of traffic, for some reason, so it took almost 30 minutes to get there. Once arrived, we checked in and grabbed a quick glass of wine in the Salon to relax.

Around 7:30 we headed down the Ave Friedlander to our dinner at Dominique Bouchet, our favorite restaurant in Paris. A 20-minute stroll put us at our table and a cordial greeting from Yann, the host, and Dominique, the owner/chef. A wonderful kir, and we were ready to put in our order. I went for cream of chestnut soup with truffles, and David had the salmon tartar, which is so beautiful you don’t want to eat it. We both went for the scallops for our main course. Remembering the fantastic bottle of Vougeot blanc we had with our last meal here, David ordered the same.

The food was wonderful, as always. We started with an amusee bouche, a silky carrot mousse. After this came our starters, then a gift from Dominique, shrimp beignets, with a like tempura-like batter. Incredibly light and tasty. The scallops were served on a bed of carmelized onions, tender, with just a light sear on them. Our coffees came with a small plate of sweets, all of which disappeared.

We left Yann and crew with promises to return in May and headed back to the Sofitel. A quick flute of Champagne to wind down, then we turned in. In sum, a nice day, especially with all the travel.

Driving back from the clinic in Salon, we decided to try to get a table at Mas du Capoun in Molleges for lunch. We have really liked the food there, and the folks who own it are delightful. While David topped of the MB with gazole, I tried to call them, but no answer. An e-mail also got no reply. We were only three kilometers away, so decided just to drop in. As we pulled up, we recognized the reason for the lack of response was they weren’t open. Our other options were to drive into St-Remy or Eygalieres to have lunch, and we opted for Eygalieres as it was nearing 1 pm. As we had eaten at L’Aubergine several time we chose La Petite Table. We had dinner there earlier in the week so we thought we’d give it a whirl for lunch and hoped it was open. We found that is was, and were seated at the same table, “votre table” as the hostess called it.  David ordered the roasted cod and I had the squab — both delicious. To top off the meal I had the chocolate mini-cake with the melted chocolate inside. What a way to finish your lunch.

We had been putting it off, but it was getting down to the 13th hour and we needed to pack our things for the train back to Paris. We reluctantly went back to the farmhouse and started to get our things in order. Once we felt everything was almost done, we invited the property manager, Patrick, who we very much enjoy, to stop by, have a glass of wine and say our goodbyes. And we also bid farewell to Roxie and her two new chicken friends too, spreading pieces of baguette around their coop.

We had a bit to eat, double-checked everything and turned in early as we had an 10 am train to catch in the morning.

We have selected a menu that presents a variety of problems:  the starter is asparagus, which is out of season – ditto the Cavaillon melon. David found some giant asparagus from Peru in one of the vegetable markets, so we will go ahead, but are not sure how to cook stalks this big properly. Raw shrimp is unheard of in this part of France, meaning we have to use cooked shrimp and risk it being overdone, or go with frozen tiger shrimp – we opted for the latter. Panko, or even bread crumbs are not available, so we have made our own from baguettes and a rolling-pin.

Armed with a pound of delicious Isigny St. Mere butter, I started the prep work, putting together the sauce for the tagliatelle, and butter for the garlic bread. The garlic here is wonderful, so soon the house was filled with its delightful aroma. While I worked on that and the filling for the scampi, David got to work on the shrimp, removing the heads, peeling and de-veining them, then brining them for 30 minutes. We arranged them in the dish, and they looked pretty good.

For the asparagus, we trimmed them to a point where they should be tender, then David peeled the stalks. We boiled them until they felt done, then removed, drained, arranged them in a dish, and put in the fridge. Later I will add Buratta (which we found in St. Remy), cooked jambon cru (the French version of prosciutto), and chopped walnuts.

The salad was a snap. We added a bit extra with the addition of smoked bacon, then popped it in the fridge. Our appetizers were simple – slices of pork sausage, anchoiade, and tapenade.

At this juncture we were in pretty good shape – only the wines and dessert left. We headed into town and stopped at the boulangerie, where I picked out a wonderful three-chocolate cake, then strolled down to the wine shop. David picked out a bottle of Deutz Champagne for our aperitif, then two bottles of superb Domaine Trevallon (made by a friend of Philippe’s) for the red. For the white, he picked out one of our favorites, a Coin de Cache from Mas de la Dame in Les Baux.

We now were pretty well set, so relaxed with a glass of wine and a lunch of sandwich jambon, which David kicked up a notch by adding slices of farm Reblochon cheese, and a piece or two of two-year-old Comte.

My phone rang and we were disappointed to hear the Jean-Pierre’s wife, Claire, would not be coming, as she was under the weather. Sorry we will miss her, but it will be nice to see everyone else, and of course Fred.

Table set (and looking nice), dishes prepped, wines breathing and chilled. We were all set when everyone arrived at the mas. They brought a wonderful red wine as a gift, a reserve Rhone bottling done by Mr. Reynaud, owner of famed Chateau Rayas, just for Riboto-de-Taven. We will leave it at the mas and enjoy it with them on our Spring visit. David put out some snacks, and Philippe opened the Deutz. Toasts all around, and the evening was  off to a nice start – everything goes better with Deutz.

David had made a fire, which crackled and warmed the room. and everyone was having a good time. I put out the salad to start. All of it disappeared, which was a real confidence booster. Next, the asparagus, which looked great and was a hit. Everyone loved the Buratta and jambon with it, and almost all of the big stalks disappeared.

The tagliatelle came next and disappeared from everyone’s plate. We turned to Jean-Pierre on the doneness of the scampi, and pulled it out when it was perfect. Plates filled and emptied several times, glasses were filled and re-filled with the wines, and  we all were having a delightful time. Philippe cut and served the cake for a perfect end to a perfect night.

Fred had been perfectly behaved the entire night, but now let it be known that it was time to go home, so everyone hopped in the car for the ride back over the Alpilles.

A wonderful evening.

I made a salad for lunch which David devoured – cheese, shrimp, avocado, shallots, onion, tomato, and several greens. I also put out some sliced ham and cheese to nibble on with a dollop of Amora mustard. The produce here is incredibly fresh, and the shallots very pungent. The Amora also seems to have more of a bite than the jars we get at home. In any event, everything disappeared and we returned to relaxing.

We suddenly noticed that the day had slipped away, and it was almost 6pm. Time to think about dinner.

We decided to go into Eygalieres and try la Petite Table, a small restaurant we had dined at in May when it was located in a tiny old house near the church. The meal and service had been good, and only the limited wine list a drawback. Now they have moved into an old house in the center of town, so off we went.

The dining room has been tastefully done in soft greys and beige, giving a very peaceful feeling. The furnishings are good, very classy, but comfortable. We started with two kirs, and perused the menu, which had a number of excellent choices on it, and reasonable pricing – 39 Euros for a full dinner. The amusee bouche arrived, and was quite unique. First there was cotton candy wrapped around a stick and small piece of foie gras - a wonderful blending of tastes. Then there were three small dishes with a wide variety of tastes: a creme brulee, a pumpkin soup, and sardine, olive, and capers on a light puff pastry. An interesting mix of flavors, and all were excellent.

I skipped a starter, and David had the oeuf parfait – a poached egg with mushrooms, which he thought was very nice. For the main course we both had the cod, which was light and moist with a creme sauce. On the side was a small helping of pomme puree – mashed potatoes with butter. For wine we had a Chateau Romanin white. After having had their nice rosé this was a bit of a disappointment. It lacked any real character.

The service was friendly and efficient, and, all in all, we feel this restaurant will be successful in tiny, upscale Eygalieres .

Tuesday - After dialysis, I was still feeling as though I was in a relapse situation and David had improved somewhat. We decided not press our luck and go sightseeing and opted to finish the shopping for tomorrows meal at the mas with Christine, Philippe, and Jean-Pierre. David had gone out early in St. Remy to look for a few items, and found that the downside of fresh, local-only produce is that when something is out of season, it’s unavailable. He could not get any raw crevettes (shrimp), nor could he find asparagus (pas le saison) except for some interesting looking stalks almost an inch in diameter. We’ll try peeling and splitting them. He found Buratta at Maison Monique, the fromages store in St. Remy, and some good jambon cru at his favorite ham store. He also got some nice sausages for appetizers.

My inspiration was to go to the huge Geant Casino in Salon de Provence that we had found last trip. Anything we needed, we should be able to find there. Lo, we found uncooked frozen tiger shrimp which he will peel, de-vein, and brine for my scampi; fresh taggliatelle; prosciutto (in case the jambon cru doesn’t work), salad stuff, and supplies for the mas.

Then it was in the car, over the Alpilles, and back to toss the stuff in the fridge before having lunch in Eygalieres. All that is left is the right wines, and panko (good luck explaining that in French).

For lunch we grabbed a table at the Bar le Progress on the main street. I ordered beef carpaccio and frites; David ordered an omelette jambon with frites, but decided to try a “light appetizer” of anchoiade (a sort of paste made from anchovy, garlic, capers, and olive oil.) His anchoiade was delicious, but could have fed three for a full lunch, with endive, carrots, cucumber, celery, toast, and more for dipping and scooping. It was too late to cancel the omelette, so we did our best to eat what we could before burping our way back to the mas. The carafe of local rosé was – bland – but for four Euros, who can complain.

after a quick stop at the boulangerie for a baguette and wonderful sacrastain almonde, we wandered back to the mas in mid afternoon, and got our plan in order for tomorrow: what dishes we will make, who will prep what, etc. David will process the shrimp, removing the heads and shells, cleaning and deveining, then brining. Our 1200 grams should yield around 1.5 lbs of shrimp for the dish. He will also peel the asparagus and get them ready for cooking. I will do all of the sauces, the salad, and the garlic bread. We need some nice wines, which we will get tomorrow with a bunch of other last-minute items. Voila.

Still full from lunch, we decided just to head to the Cafe for a carafe of wine. patrick joined us, and we spent more time than we had planned enjoying his company and learning more about France and the French way of life. The cafe  bought us a final round, which we finished with a toast to them. They have become friends and greet us every day. Then we wound our way back to the mas and turned in.

Sunday – Woke to a great day and plenty of birthday wishes from everyone. It really kicked off my day to a great start! Unfortunately, David wasn’t feeling much better, but had a big cup of tea and said he was improving. He certainly sounded better. He started taking a Z-Pack so I’m hoping it will kick in quickly. Our plans for the day were to do a little touring around the countryside, then have dinner at Riboto-de-Taven. We drove to the Abbaye de Silvacane and toured around. It is very impressive, and very stark. A Cistercian-era building that goes back about 1,000 years – sort of like Delray Beach. I took quite a few photos, so check them out when you have a chance. On our way back, we  stopped in Pont Royal and had a kir at Da Bastide du Pont Royal. We finished and returned to the farmhouse.

Later we drove over the mountain pass to Riboto-de-Taven to have dinner. Chef Jean-Pierre outdid himself from appetizers to dessert. Philippe plucked a rare bottle of 1997 Drouhin Beaune Clos du Mouches from his cellar for our wine. It was wonderful, and we prevailed on Philippe to share a glass with us.  The dining room was busy, so it was at the end of the dinner that I opened the gift given to me by Christine, Philippe, and Jean-Pierre. How ironic was it that they gave me a cookbook of recipes and secrets from the monasteries of France, as we had just been to one earlier. Philippe thinks that we are all on the same wave-length. I think so too.

Before heading off to bed, I checked in on the status of the Gurus football pool and discovered I had won this week. What a great way to end a beautiful birthday. It couldn’t have been more perfect!